Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Mongolian Cashmere Goats

How do you turn noxious weeds into cash? Buy cashmere goats!

A nomad's ATM, they turn the sharpest thorns and most noxious weeds into the softest cashmere.

And they're cute! Here's a photo of my son investigating a herd we met on the Mongolian Steppe...

The Life Of A Mongolian Cashmere Goat

As you can see, cashmere goats come in shades of black, gray, brown and white. In Mongolia, nomads usually maintain mixed herds. Goats outnumber people by four to one, and roam almost as wildlife - usually keeping within a few kilometers of their owner's ger. We saw no one looking after the herd pictured above.

Goats grow cashmere as an undercoat - providing nomads with their main source of cash income. But a goat's usefulness does not stop there. Mongolians milk goats throughout the summer producing various dairy products. Excess milk is churned and dried into a kind of nomads'candy for use in the winter.

Come October, the bucks straddle the does which then carry pregnancies through the winter. In Winter Mongolian goats see their only shelter of the year - usually a 3-sided barn. A small luxury when pregnant in extreme subzero temperatures!

The kids drop in April and the goats get a month's maternity before dehairing begins in May and June.

How Cashmere Gets From The Goat To You!

A goat grows two types of hair. Cashmere comes from the fine, downy, and soft undercoat which begins growing on the longest day of the year. Mongolian herders collect the cashmere in Spring by combing it out.

Wholesale buyers then pay for the down based on weight and truck it off to the cashmere factories...

The factories process the cashmere and turn it into the garments which ship to a store near you. Want to take a look at the finished products? Check out the website of my favorite Mongolian supplier - Pure Cashmere Boutique.

The Many Types Of Cashmere Goat

Google cashmere goat, and you'll find they all look different - they're not a breed, but a type. Any goat producing cashmere in saleable quantities can join the club.

Some breeds are better known than others, and most consider Mongolian goats the best. Countries as far afield as Australia purchase breeding stock from Mongolia.

But attempts by Australia and others to breed Mongolian goats have failed to produce cashmere of the same value.

Here's why...

Cashmere gets its value from length, width and texture - attributes determined by DNA. But as Australian and American farmers have discovered, a goat's environment plays an even bigger role.

Mongolian Cashmere Secret #1 - the colder the

weather

(and Mongolian weather can drop to MINUS 50 Celsius!), and the longer the days, the longer the goat's hair. Mongolian goats grow fiber between 40-47 mm long, producing between 250-300 grams of cashmere each season.

Mongolian Cashmere Secret #2 - the thinner the goat, the finer the cashmere, and believe me - there ain't any fat goats in the Gobi! When a Mongolian goat travels abroad it turns into a well-fed matron and stops producing fiber thin enough to qualify as cashmere.

New Breeds

In the twentieth century, Soviet scientists crossbred Mongolian goats with a Russian variety. The result? An ugly outsized goat with coarse hair. Fortunately once the Russians withdrew, nature took care of the rest. The crossbred goats needed more than the available forage and disappeared from the gene pool.

In today's Outer Mongolia, herders put little effort into breeding new strains - Mongolians prefer to let nature take care of itself.

But in Inner Mongolia, the Chinese have devoted much time to producing new breeds. Inner Mongolian cashmere goats now divide into five strains: the Alasan (Alashanzuoqi), Arbus and Erlangshan breeds grow the finest cashmere. Whilst the Hanshan and Wuzhumuqin grow rougher cashmere in greater quantity.

Fancy Raising A Cashmere Goat?

If you live in America try contacting the ECA. But remember, goats need the companionship of other goats - you will not be buying one, but a herd!

Which Capital Of Mongolia?

The capital of Mongolia used to move with the seasons. Its residents would load their homes onto the back of a camel and move on.

If the city didn't move, the government and civil

service

did. Kublai Khan - Genghis Khan's grandson - changed Mongolia's capital at least three times a year.

Even the present capital of Mongolia, Ulan Bator, has a nomadic quarter.

Below you will find a description of Mongolian Capitals, past and present...

Ulan Bator - Modern Capital Of Mongolia

Ulan Bator: a modern city with a host of attractions, new and old.

UB started life as a nomadic, monastic settlement. It has changed location twenty-eight times; at one time it even traveled to China. A religious ceremony determined the time and location of each move.

In 1778, UB moved to its current location on the Tuul River. At that time, most of its inhabitants were Buddhist monks. The monks chose the site because of four holy 'mountains'which surround it.

But the 1930s brought a socialist government and a religious purge. Monks were forced to abandon their faith, and UB reinvented itself as a manufacturing center and modern capital.

Today, Ulan Bator has grown into a bustling city with over a million inhabitants.

Ulaan Baatar (as the locals spell it) has Mongolia's only international airport and connects Mongolia with the rest of the world by road, rail and air.

How And When To Arrive | Things to do in UB | Safety in UB

Hohhot, China - Capital Of Inner Mongolia

Hohhot: Capital of Inner Mongolia, China

The name Hohhot consists of two Mongolian words: 'hoh' meaning blue, and 'hot' meaning city. Founded by a Mongolian king in the sixteenth century, Hohhot became a part of China after the collapse of the Mongol Yuan dynasty.

In 1952, Hohhot became the administrative center and capital of Inner Mongolia - part of a Chinese effort to protect Mongolian culture. These efforts met with only partial success. Today, only one in ten of Hohhot's citizens descend from Mongol origin.

Read my Hohhot page for more information about what to see, eat and buy in Hohhot City.

But if you want to experience real Mongol culture, you should travel to Outer Mongolia.

Ulan Ude - Capital Of Buryatia, Russia

Ulan Ude once belonged to the Mongol Empire. Today, it's the third-largest city in Eastern Siberia and the capital of Russia's Buryat Republic.

Ulan Ude sits at the junction of the Trans-Siberian and Trans-Mongolian lines. Many travelers disembark and explore Ulan Ude on their way to Ulan Bator or Beijing.

The city also makes a convenient base for exploring Lake Baikal, the largest fresh-water lake in the world.

Click here for Ulan Ude tips on: what to see, where to stay and what to eat.

Karakorum - Genghis Khan's Ancient Capital Of Mongolia

Kharkhorum - Genghis Khan's Ancient Capital

Erdene Zuu Monastery - near Karakorum, ancient capital of Mongolia

At first, Karakorum served as a rallying point for Genghis Khan's troops. But by 1220, Genghis Khan had founded a capital in karakorum and the city became the center of his empire. In keeping with nomadic tradition, Karakorum moved several times a year.

After Genghis Khan's death, many captured artisans and skilled workers made their home in Karakorum. Their presence led to a construction boom. The construction of a large palace and city walls fixed Karakorum's position.

Karakorum became a significant center for sculpture - especially noteworthy for its stone tortoises. In fact, a stone tortoise is the last-standing witness of the old Mongolian capital...

Eventually, Mongolia's capital moved to Beijing. Karakorum then suffered civil war before Ming troops burnt it to the ground. In 1585, monks used the ruins to build a Tibetan Buddhist monastery called Erdene Zuu. This temple still stands.

Karakorum remains a powerful symbol of Mongolia's past glory.

Click here for Karakorum tips on: how to get there, what to do, what to see, and where to stay.

Other Cities, Once A Capital Of Mongolia

Khar Balgas - The capital of the eighth-century Uighur Empire. The ruins cover an area some fifty kilometers square and contain evidence of a palace and temple.

The ruins of Karakorum lie close by. Some believe that the ruins of Khar Balgas inspired Genghis Khan to found Karakorum.

Xanadu (or Shangdu) - The summer capital of Kublai Khan, the grandson of Genghis Khan. Built between 1252 and 1256 it was laid out in a square with an inner and outer city.

Xanadu represented a marriage of Chinese civilization and nomadic culture. Built at the height of Mongolia's golden age, it saw the reign of eleven emperors in 108 years. A Ming army destroyed the city in 1369.

Today only an earthen mound, used to support the city walls, remains.

The White City - Known as the 'Middle Capital of the Mongolian Yuan dynasty.

Its ruins lie in China's Hebei Province, close to Mantaoying village. The city divided into three parts: the Palace City, the Imperial City, and the Outer City. Some of the buildings still stand.

The White City had a short lifespan as a capital. Gaining capital status in 1308, it was abandoned in 1311 because of ominous astrological signs. Locals destroyed the city in 1358, ten years before Ming troops chased the Mongols out of China.

Beijing - The Mongolian ruled Yuan Dynasty established Beijing as its primary capital. It remains the capital of China.

Other Mongolia Cities

The Mongolian steppe and desert contain many more cities which look more like towns from America's Wild West.

If you tour Mongolia, you will likely stumble upon at least one or two.

Not all are small. Read more about Mongolia's five biggest cities here.

Mongolia Facts

Mongolia facts tells you more than a "same-old" stats page!

Read on to find intriguing and fun facts about Mongolia: facts about Mongolian culture; facts about the wildlife; facts to add color to your tour...

Discover...

Why you should get your visa before a presidential election

Why some people drive ten thousand miles to visit a pub

Why you need a Mongolian to stop speaking to know if they like you

What Mongolian money smells of

Genghis Khan's real name

How and why Mongolian pay phones follow you

Mongolia facts you will find nowhere else.

Click

the titles to find more information.

Mongolia Tour Facts

Meet The Mongolian People

In the thirteenth century, a writer described Mongolian people as "Antichrist."

Worried? Don't be!

Having lived in Outer Mongolia for over twelve years, I can tell you that my Mongol friends are intelligent, friendly and laid back.

In fact, Mongolians are the friendliest people in Asia. Many an expatriate has arrived here and stayed, including myself!

Mongolia Population

With a population of around 3 million, Mongolia is the most sparsely populated country in the world. In fact, Mongolian people are slightly outnumbered by horses!

But less than half of Mongolian people actually live in their homeland. China and Russia host large Mongol populations. And in the last twenty years thousands of Mongolians have emigrated around the globe.

But Mongolia, also known as Outer Mongolia, remains the Mongol homeland.

Urban Mongols

Despite Outer Mongolia's vast size, 38 percent of the population has squashed itself into the capital of Mongolia - Ulan Bator. There you will find the full urban deal - traffic jams, pollution and stressed-out pedestrians.

When you walk the streets of Ulan Bator, you will see the nomads and urbanites rubbing shoulders together. The nomads wearing traditional deels and the urbanites dressed in cashmere sweaters and chic fashions.

The urban Mongol lives a life which you would find familiar. Many work nine till five in shops, banks and offices. Others work in restaurants, hospitals and schools. Some Mongolians work as teachers, some paint, some sing, others are movie stars.

But...

Only about half the population lives in cities. The other half still roams free on the vast steppes or in the Gobi desert.

My advice? Don't spend more than a couple of days in the city - get out into the countryside and discover the REAL Mongolia!

Mongolian Nomads

Around 1.5 million nomads live on the steppes. They herd sheep, goats, yaks, horses and two-humped camels. Everything they own comes from their herds. They even make their own alcohol - fermented mares' milk!

The typical nomad lives in a felt tent. The tents are called gers, and come in all sizes but one shape - circular. Gers are held together without a single nail, they stand as monuments to a nomad's genius and self-sufficient way of life.

Nomads live and breathe hospitality. You should make sure your itinerary includes a night or two with them - or at least a visit. But watch out for the

dogs

Mongolian Men

Half a million still live the life of real men galloping across the steppes. But many have laid down this life and migrated to the cities.

Once in the city, some have gone on to lead their country while others have struggled with poverty and alcohol.

One of the biggest problems for the urbanized nomads is a lack of pasture in the city. This led to a law which prohibits nomads bringing their herds here.

With no herds or urban skills, many have floundered.

Those who remain on the steppe have fared better. They maintain ancient traditions which determine their roles and even where they should sit in a ger.

Avoid embarrassing mistakes by reading about the nomadic people of Mongolia before you visit!

Mongolian Women

Mongolian women have always had a prominent position in Mongol society. At times they ruled the Mongol Empire - the largest empire the world has known.

That legacy has continued today with women active in every area of Mongolian society.

Mongolian women have also inherited a genetic legacy from their forebears. Chinggis Khan had a keen eye for beauty as he conquered his empire. You can see this genetic heritage on the streets and steppes of Mongolia today.

Like the men, nomadic women have a well-defined role in the Mongolian nomad's way of life.

Mongolian Children

Mongolia has a young population. Of the 3 million Mongolian people in this vast land - 1 million are below the age of 14!

They live a life Western children can only dream of! Free from the scourge of health and safety concerns, they climb, run, leap, wrestle... living life to the full.

You may meet a few Mongolian children with names such as Vicious Dog; Not a Human Being and I don't know. This might seem cruel, but their parents have their best interests at heart. Check out my Mongolian names page to find out why.

Mongolian Street Children

Life sucks for some, though. If you wander around the city for a day or two, you will likely meet Mongolian street kids.

They lead a grim life, but not exactly as reported by western media.

You will need to be firm with them, or they will follow you down the street forever. But please show them some respect!

Mongolian Spot

Mongolian people share many physical characteristics: high cheekbones, honey-colored skin, the Mongolian blue spot...

But Mongols do not come from a single ethnic group. The Mongolian people come from several dozen tribes which over centuries have become interlinked through marriage and politics.

The Khalkh form the largest group - around eighty percent of the Mongolian population today. The remaining twenty percent divide into around sixteen distinct ethnic groups.

In the Western parts of Mongolia you will find the Bayad, Torguud, Uuld, Zakhchin, Myangad and the Uriankhai. In the South and East you will find the Darkhad, Buriyat, Barga, Uzemchin and Dariganga. The Kazakhs are the largest minority, found in the far West of Mongolia in Bayan-Ulgii. Smaller groups include the Tuva, Uriankhai, Khoton and Tsaatan.

As you tour Mongolia, make sure you link up with these ethnic groups. They lead fascinating lives and have a wealth of local knowledge they can impart.

And keep an eye on how the traditional Mongolian clothing changes as you travel from East to West!

Reindeer People

The smallest group of Mongolian people mentioned above is the reindeer people - called Tsaatan in Mongolia. Numbering in the low hundreds they live in tepees which look remarkably like those of the American Indians.

If you come to Mongolia in the winter, then this ethnic group should come high on your list of must-meets.

Explore Mongolia Through Mongolia Pictures

Browse these Mongolia pictures to discover the beauty and variety of Mongolia and its culture...

Pictures Of Mongolian People

Mongolian people have a long history and rich culture. I met the above group in Sukhbaatar Square. Dressed in deels, - robe like costumes well suited to life on the steppe - they happily posed with my son and me.

As you can see in the photo, the deel comes in various styles - reflecting the clan, age or marital status of the wearer.

What is the Gobi Desert?

The Gobi desert is not one massive sand dune. It’s a universe of landscapes; some of them look eerily alien.

Located in South Mongolia and North China the Gobi is an immense place where dinosaurs once roamed.

It’s difficult to do justice to the Gobi on the written page. Take a look at this video and you’ll see what I mean . . .

Which part of the Gobi desert should I visit?

That depends on what you want to do!

Want to go dinosaur hunting? Then try the northwestern parts of the Gobi. The lucky traveler still occasionally stumbles over a nest of dinosaur eggs . . .

If you like to build sandcastles, then try the Eastern Gobi. The Khongoryn Els (singing dunes) stand over a hundred-people tall and hundreds of kilometers long.

If you have an interest in wildlife, you should visit the Southern Altai Gobi Nature Reserve. Here you can find a host of indigenous Gobi desert animals: the Przewalski horse, the world’s last wild horse; the Gobi bear; the golden eagle; Bactrian two-humped camels; evensnow leopards venture into the Gobi in winter.

How do I get there?

First you need to get to Mongolia. Check out my travel to Mongolia page.

Once you’re here you can cross the Gobi the old-fashioned way--on the back of a camel or horse . . .

But . . .

Most travelers these days book a tour and either take an internal flight or travel by jeep.

If you want to see the Gobi in all its chameleon changing glory then wheels is the way to go!

Traveling by jeep takes two full days of driving from the Mongolian capital -Ulaan Baatar. But a lack of Mongolian roads makes the journey a bumpy one!

When should I visit the Gobi desert?

Take my advice and visit sometime between June—September. Mongolian weather gets pretty darn cold in winter. And spring and autumn can see winds of up to 140 kilometers per hour! Think of all that sand and dust—avoid!

What else can I find there?

You can find the animals listed above, a host more which I have not listed, a number of indigenous Gobi desert plants . . .

And yes, the hardiest species of all . . .

Where can I stay?

If you’ve booked a tour, your tour company will have arranged accommodation.

If not . . .

You will find dozens of ger camps scattered around the Gobi. They look something like this . . .

Here you will find water, food and maybe even a cold Mongolian beer!

But in fact any nomad will give you food and lodging. Nomad custom dictates that when you happen upon a ger you just walk straight in, and in the absence of a host—help yourself!

But watch out for the

dogs

! They’re kept to protect the livestock from wolves but can bite if they feel threatened.

Before you go . . .

Every nomad family you meet will serve you with salty tea, fermented milk and if you’re lucky cow’s intestines! Even the vegetable soup contains meat. They call it “vegetable” because it actually has something green in it!

Just in case you can’t stomach the local fare, I recommend taking . . .

Powdered milk, cereal, dried fruit, crackers, cookies, instant soup, instant potato, dried meat, vitamin supplements . . .

And anything else you can’t live without!

And unless you fancy dealing with explosive diarrhea in the middle of a Gobi sandstorm—take some laxatives!

Other standard items to take include sunglasses, sun cream and small gifts for the nomads you meet on your travels.

If you’re a hard-core camper—make sure you have a specialist tent designed for high altitude and temperature extremes. You should also take a desalinization unit for cleaning water in emergencies. The lakes are salty and the wells unmarked!

Oh yes … avoid the Mongolian Death Worm at all costs!

Alternative Spellings

The word Gobi means “desert region” in Mongolian and has no other special meaning—despite what you read on the net!

Alternative spellings are: govi or gov’.

Click here to learn more about the Mongolian desert.

The Gobi is not the only Mongolian desert
Explore the Gobi desert with these Gobi maps
Find the Gobi's top attractions on this tourist map of the Gobi
Read my Mongolian weather page to find the best time to visit
Get more information on Mongolian airlines which fly to the Gobi
If you're planning to drive you'd better buy a Mongolian road map
But keep your eye open for the Mongolian death worm!
Keep up-to-date by subscribing to my Mongolia travel blog

Map of Mongolia

Visiting Mongolia? I strongly recommend that you obtain a map of Mongolia—and a good map of Ulan Bator--before you arrive . . .

As a backpacker, you’ll want to see the exact location of the hostel you just called. Even on a guided tour you will want to break free for souvenir shopping.

If you’re heading of into the Mongolian countryside then you’ll definitely need a map of Mongolia. Check out this dedicated road map page for advice.

Time-travelers and history students might find this Mongol Empire Map useful.

What is Inner Mongolia?

Inner Mongolia (called Nei Menggu in Chinese) forms part of China. On this Web site you can read all about Outer Mongolia--an independent country. However, since China is my next door neighbor it would be rude to ignore this province completely . . .

Inner Mongolia curves like a banana around China's northern border (see the shaded green area on the map). Dominated by China, Mongolian culture has all but disappeared. To find REAL Mongolian culture you will have to travel deep into the countryside . . .

So what should I see and do?

You can see two things throughout the region--from the grasslands and forests of the east to the deserts of the west . . .

(1) First prize goes to the nomads. Living in their traditional felt tents they epitomize the REAL Mongolia. Here you will find: fermented mare’s milk; traditional long songs; wild nature--the list goes on . . . You really must visit the countryside to meet these people.

Try and visit during the Naadam Festival. During Naadam you can watch the nomads competing in: wrestling, horse racing and archery. If you’re fortunate, you may get to taste a whole roasted lamb cooked the Mongolian way!

Welcome To Outer Mongolia!

Outer Mongolia is an independent democracy lodged between China and Russia.

Imagine waking one morning and discovering yourself surrounded by endless steppe. In the distance, you can see a glacier-topped mountain. A hundred meters away you can hear the gurgling of a stream. On the horizon, you can just spot your nearest neighbor galloping after his herds.

You're sure you parked your camel next to the ger last night, but somehow it has wandered off again!

Welcome to Mongolia!

Outer Mongolia, Inner Mongolia - What's The Difference?

Three hundred years after the exploits of Genghis Khan large parts of Mongolia fell under Chinese rule. The Manchus called the region closest to Chinese civilization "Inner Mongolia" and the northern part "Outer Mongolia."

Since then, Outer Mongolia has held a wild and remote reputation which it has never shaken off.

Let me take you on a quick tour...

Southern Outer Mongolia - The Gobi Desert

Southern Mongolia consists mainly of desert.

The word 'desert' translates into Mongolian as "gobi," pronounced "goiv."

Technically "gobi" refers to an area of land with enough vegetation to maintain camels, but not enough for marmots. It's an extremely fragile environment where a little overgrazing can take the desert beyond even the camel's reach!

Although most Mongolian desert areas lie in the south, you can find patches of desert within a day's drive of the capital - Ulan Bator.

Ulan Bator - The Capital Of Mongolia

Ulan Bator is the political, business and everything hub of Mongolia. The city's name can be spelled and pronounced several ways - the locals just call it UB.

UB started life as a nomadic monastery, settling in its current location in 1778. From the 1950s to 80s Mongolia's capital expanded into a medium-sized socialist town with wide sidewalks and large boulevards.

Then democracy came...

Today UB bustles with a million residents - some ride on horseback, some drive Mercedes. If you visited Ulan Bator five years ago, you won't recognize it today.

Travel to Mongolia . . .

or “How on earth do I get there?”

How do you travel to Mongolia?

You have your passport. You have a visa . . .

But unless you purchased a tour from a specialist travel agent you will have to work out your own route here . . .

How do you get here?

Mongolia’s landlocked location cuts out cruise ships. Not that you’d know that from some of the adverts on the net!

The five main ways to get here . . .

1) Flying--by far the most convenient solution. Check out my flights to Mongoliapage for tips and tricks on getting the cheapest ticket. I will also explain the pros and cons of the different routes . . .

Click here if you're interested in kick-starting your trip with a domestic flight.

Mongolia train on the trans-Mongolian

2) The trans-Mongolian line - make the most of the scenery. The trans-Mongolian line runs from Moscow to Beijing with a stop in Ulaan Baatar. I’ve taken the Beijing to Ulaan Baatar trip many times myself and never tire of it. Miles of endless Steppe broken with gers and horse riders who appear from nowhere . . .

Various websites have excellent advice about catching the trans-Mongolian. Seat61 is by far the most informative. Try this page for information on planning your journey and booking a ticket.

3) Then there’s the REALLY adventurous route - the Mongol Rally. Not for the faint-hearted. The rally sets of from London and through various adventures en route you may or may not end up in Ulaan Baatar. So far, no one has come to serious harm.

You can choose any vehicle you like. The more unusual ones I’ve come across include: an ice-cream van, black London cab and a garbage collection truck . . . hey, they made it!